Chain kit builder

Step 2 works it out for you. It starts from your bike’s original front and rear tooth counts and chain length, and recalculates the moment you change either sprocket, so the length shown always matches the parts you have actually picked, not the factory ones.

It is the standard recommendation, and it is why this tool treats the three as one kit. A worn sprocket chews through a new chain quickly, and a stretched chain does the same to new sprockets, and replacing one part alone usually costs you the other two sooner.

Yes. Pick a different tooth count on either sprocket and the builder shows the new final-drive ratio, how far it departs from standard as a percentage, and what that does to acceleration, top speed, revs at cruising speed and your speedometer reading. Larger departures are flagged.

They are chain sizes: pitch and width. The chain and both sprockets have to be the same size as each other and as your bike. The builder only offers parts in your bike’s size, so the three cannot be mixed by accident.

A clip (split) link is fitted by hand; a rivet link needs a chain tool and makes the stronger joint, which is why heavier and more powerful bikes generally use one. Each chain lists its joint type alongside its seal type (O-ring, X-ring or X-ring HD), so you can choose deliberately.

Find it three ways: type the model, enter a Dutch numberplate, or pick make, model and year. If the factory sprocket and chain specs for your bike are not in the database yet you can still pick parts freely. The chain-length advice appears as soon as that data lands.